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In Tuscany it is still possible to find wholesome and tasty foods. Oil, wine, cheese, truffles, mushrooms are typical products. The meat is delicious. Cold cuts are irresistible, especially if served with by bread, obviously unsalted, or if they fill the schiaccia, that is the typical Tuscan focaccia cooked in the oven and seasoned with oil. Vegetables and fruit are very tasty: for instance, the violet artichokes from Val di Cornia or the rugginose apples from Val di Chiana. Even in Florence, both in the markets and in the grocery stores, the quality is still excellent and the only danger is not to fall into temptation too much…
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
In every area of Tuscany extra virgin olive oils are produced. Each of them is special, due to the variety of olives used, the characteristics of the land and the harvesting period. Tuscan extra virgin olive oil is safeguarded by the Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) since 1998; this IGP standard provides for strict regulations from harvesting to milling, up to packaging. Generally, as soon as it is obtained, Tuscan oil has a strong green colour which then turns to a more golden dominant. The aroma is intense. A slice of bread topped with good Tuscan oil can be a king's dish…
It is advisable to do some tasting, and stopping in the wine shops in the centre of Florence which - in addition to Chianti and other Tuscan wines - often also sell oil in bottles or cans. So you can choose the one that best suits your taste.
Wine
In Tuscany, the nectar of the gods is mainly Chianti which is exported all over the world and is produced with different grape varieties: Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvasia. Flasks and bottles of this wine are on sale everywhere. If you want, you can take advantage of the tastings that almost all the Chianti wineries organize. Going to do a tasting is very pleasant as Chianti is a beautiful Italian area.
In addition to Chianti, among the other Tuscan red wines, we could mention Brunello di Montalcino, Montecucco, Rosso di Montalcino, Ciliegiolo, Nobile di Montepulciano. Among the white wines, Vermentino Colli di Luni, Vernaccia di S. Gimignano. Finally, among the sipping wines, Vin Santo di Carmignano and Aleatico Passito dell’Elba.
Meat
The so-called Fiorentina is a dry-aged steak of at least one kilo, T-shaped and 4 centimeters high. It is obtained from the Chianina cattles, which were bred also by the Etruscans and Romans in ancient times. The Fiorentina is on sale in every butcher's shop. Tuscan meats in general, both white and red, are excellent. For example, among the red ones, Maremmana, Calvanina and Garfagnina are very appreciated and raised in the wild. Their delicious cuts of meat are used in recipes such as Peposo, that is a part of the beef muscle cooked in terracotta containers. In the Florence markets there are still stalls that sell tripe and lampredotto, typical ingredients of some Florentine recipes. For those who do not want to to cook this offal, tripe and lampredotto are typical street foods that can be bought ready-made. They can fill a sandwich or be taken home in a take-away tray.
Cheese
Throughout the region, thanks to the work of shepherds and cheesemakers, there are several varieties of excellent pecorino, produced in the mountains, hills and plains. In fact, Tuscany, unlike Northern Italy where cheese is derived mainly from cow's milk, has a dairy production centred on sheep's milk. One of the best pecorino is undoubtedly the Scoppolato di Pedona produced in Versilia, aged in a cave for six months and processed with double curdling. In addition to pecorino DOP, whose most important production areas are Pienza, Mugello, Val di Cornia, Tuscany offers a wide selection of cheese: mountain one, goat one, blue cheese, and many other kinds flavoured with pepper, marc, tomato and truffle.
Cured Meat
It is impossible to stop your mouth watering for the typical Tuscan handmade cured meats: the soft finocchiona whose meat is mixed with fennel seeds and flowers, the sbriciolona which easily crumbles, the fresh Tuscan sausage meat that can also be seasoned with a mix of spices and aromas, the soprassata which is produced with pork not used for other kinds of meat and enriched with spices and garlic, the salty cheek covered with pepper, then the capocollo, the lonzino and the cured ham. The art of butchers in Tuscany is record-breaking.
Legumes and Cereals
The Tuscan culinary tradition includes many dishes based on legumes and cereals. These ingredients make recipes appetizing and are very good for your health. In this region there are over twenty varieties of legumes: from the superfine Sorana bean to the Pratomagno zolfino which is particularly suitable to be added to ribollita, the typical Tuscan bread soup. And then, among others, the Piegarino bean from Garfagnana, the Schiaccione bean from Pietrasanta. Among the chickpeas, we can mention the pink one from Reggello and the Rugoso from Garfagnana. There are different possibilities of choice for cereals and the mixtures with spelt, barley, and various types of lentils give us the basis for the warm and tasty Tuscan soups.
Where to buy
Markets
The central markets of San Lorenzo and Sant’Ambrogio are the historic markets of the city, built between 1870 and 1874 to replace the Old Market that had to be demolished to make room for Piazza della Repubblica.
The San Lorenzo Market, a stone's throw from the Station and the Medici Chapels, hosts numerous food sales counters on the ground floor: there you can find local meats, Tuscan cheese, cold cuts, fish, bread and sweets, fruit and vegetables and many products for tourists. On the first floor, the atmosphere is enlivened by restaurants and cafes.
The Sant’Ambrogio Market, in Santa Croce district, is smaller and less touristy. Inside there are excellent butchers and cheese and gastronomy stands. Outside it is surrounded by rich stalls of fruit and vegetables, clothes and linen.
Forno Brunori, Borgo Pinti 16r, Florence, 055 2480809.
All over Florence you can taste the schiacciata stuffed with cold cuts, cheese and vegetables of your choice, but those prepared in the Brunori bakery are truly special, both for the abundance and freshness of the ingredients and for the cheap price. The small round focaccia are also worth trying.
Forno Leonardo, via dei Macci 65/r, Florence, tel. 055 0132711.
At the Leonardo bakery, which is very close to the Church of Sant’Ambrogio, you can buy fragrant and delicious bread, biscuits, cantuccini and schiacciate. All these delicacies are produced according to traditional recipes. An address not to be missed.
Valdarno Carni, Piazza Ghiberti Lorenzo, 1, Florence, tel. 055 2342283.
The butcher Valdarno Carni, which is inside the Sant’Ambrogio Market, offers fresh cuts of beef, veal, rabbit, poultry for roasts, steaks, stews. On the counter there is plenty of ready-to-cook specialties such as chicken rolls with artichokes, duck seasoned with orange, meatloafs or classic galantine. Opposite the butcher's, Valdarno Carni has a counter dedicated to rotisserie where special sauces, stewed meats, roast beef and other specialties are available.
Pizzicheria Baroni, via Galluzzo, Florence, tel. 055 289576.
Cured meats and spices, oils and vinegars are on sale in this grocery store inside the San Lorenzo Market. The cheese counter is very rich and the selection of Tuscan kinds of cheese should not be neglected. It is worth tasting ricotta, raveggiolo and pecorino from different areas of Tuscany such as Val d'Orcia, Volterra, Mugello.
Bacco nudo, via dei Macci 59r, Florence, tel. 055 243298.
The wine shop, in addition to a selection of bottled and unpackaged wines, offers excellent extra virgin olive oils from Impruneta and Florentine Chianti. oil can be bought in bottles or in three and five-liter cans.
Olio e Vino Sfuso, via Gioberti 3r, Florence, tel. 055663273.
This shop is not in the historic centre, but in its immediate vicinity at the beginning of via Gioberti, also known as the road of one hundred shops because it is where Florentines go shopping. The wine shop offers a wide range of bottled and bulk wines, and Tuscan extra virgin olive oil.
Barbara
florenceapartment@icloud.com
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